Asked recently by a friend to recommend a Nova Scotia red wine to serve with Osso Bucco at a special family meal, Benjamin Bridge winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslauriers went into the depths of our cellar and chose the 2016 Cabernet Franc.

“I wanted to be sure the wine represented us well,” he said.

The little-known wine proved such a success at the table that the remaining bottles are now being made available to our club members and other customers.

“It is a variety of French origin, grown most notably in Bordeaux, where it is a significant component of some very iconic wines, including Chateau Cheval Blanc,” Deslauriers said. “Cabernet Franc is often included in Bordeaux blends alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but is rarely bottled on its own. Where it does stand alone is in the Loire Valley, whose cooler climate makes it a more natural reference point for Cabernet Franc in Nova Scotia.”

About a decade ago, Benjamin Bridge acquired the Gertridge family parcel next to the winery, where Cabernet Franc is now planted. However, the 2016 red, along with the 2015 and 2020 Cabernet Franc rosé (also now being released) -originates from a different site.

“Our cab franc comes from one of the most historic plantings in Nova Scotia, a small parcel at what we call our Kingsport vineyard, technically in Habitant and right next door to Blomidon Winery,” said Deslauriers. “At the time it was planted in the 1990s, it was the only block of Cabernet Franc in the province, and it’s still thriving today - an extraordinary illustration of the moderating effect of the Bay of Fundy. The vines sit just metres from the Habitant estuary, where the tides help soften the extreme cold of winter.”

Deslauriers said each year’s growing conditions dictate whether Cabernet Franc grapes are made into a red wine or a rosé.

“The older the vintage, climatically, the more likely it was best suited for a rose,” he said, noting that the “really beautiful” heat units leading up to the 2025 harvest dictated a red wine. “The number of 30-degree days is key. In the case of the rose, you press it pretty much right away, it’s not something where you could have more than a few hours of skin contact with Cabernet Franc. Therefore, it’s almost processed like a white, directly into the press. For a red, you do have to manage the tannins a little bit.”

All three Cabernet Franc vintages now being released originate from this ‘viticultural treasure’ in Habitant, though warming trends suggest we may see more reds in the future.

“The rosé is very much a drink-now wine,” he said, “but these bottles also demonstrate the remarkable ability of Nova Scotia wines to retain brightness and vitality with age. A ten-year-old rosé is rarely a good thing - but these Cabernet Francs are different animals.”